Ancient graffiti on Kuyeutam Mausoleum

The Kuyeutam Mausoleum with its graffiti on its wall is a curious building in the desert of Mangystau in Western Kazakhstan.

Nestled approximately 40 km northwest of Senek village, the Kuyeutam Mausoleum stands on a low hill, just off the Ozen–Beket-Ata road. It lies 1.8 km northwest of the larger Shopan-Ata necropolis, which is part of one of Mangystau’s most sacred pilgrim route.

The mausoleum – called also mazar – was rediscovered in 2004 by researchers from the Mangystau Historical and Cultural Reserve covered under a small sand dune. It is believed that the mazar is dedicated to Kuyeutam, who, according to legend, was the son‑in‑law of the celebrated Sufi saint Shopan‑ata. So the mausoleum became after its rediscovery quickly a important prelude to the visit to Shopan‑ata’s underground mosque. So visitors often tie white ribbons or cloths and light candels inside the mazar before proceeding to the Shopan‑ata cemetery, in a ritual showing respect and seeking blessings.

The Kuyeutam mausoleum itself is a roofless square structure, built from heavy sandstone blocks typical of Mangystau’s sacred architecture. What it makes it special are the graffiti on its wall: Instead of ornamentation, they are decorated with mystical carved petroglyphs, including animal figures (such as camels, ibexes and horses), handprints and images of sabers and daggers – symbols that are generally not found on Islamic mausoleums due to the ban on images. Also some Persian words are visible on the stone walls. It is not yet clear, who built this structure and why and for which purpose it has these outstanding graffiti.

But that’s precisely what makes this mausoleum in the middle of the Mangystau Desert so interesting for visitors and pilgrims. We hope it’s piqued your curiosity, too.

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